expedition_retirement: (European Union)
With only three full days in Budapest, there was so much we didn't get to see. We didn't visit any of the museums, and we didn't go inside the Parliament building. We didn't ride a tram (although we did ride the Metro). But we did visit the Central Market Hall, which, to my eye, looked more like a train station. Inside, we wandered through the rows of stalls offering meat, produce, wine, and spices. The sights and sounds were similar to other market halls we've visited, but we had a mission here...paprika. I have been told many times that American paprika can't be compared to Hungarian paprika, and I wanted to bring some authentic Hungarian paprika home with us. We had seen it in other shops, but the prices here were better, and so we stocked up. We also got some cured sausages to snack on and lángos, a fried flatbread that is popular street food here.
Central Market Hall
We also visited the Basilica of St. Stephen. This church is dedicated to King St. Stephen I, who Christianized Hungary. It is a relatively modern church, built in the 19th Century, but is quite ornate and striking inside. Behind the main altar is a statue of King St. Stephen (there seem to be statues of him everywhere in the city), and a proudly displayed reliquary holds a mummified right hand alleged to be that of St. Stephen. The church was still decorated for Christmas, with Christmas trees and a nativity scene still set up. During our tour earlier in the day, our tour guide recited the amount of gold leaf used in the construction of the Parliament building, but didn't mention how much was used in the church, but it was clearly a significant amount.
Basilica of St. Stephen The main altar at St. Stephen's St. Stephen's nativity
On our way back to our hotel from the basilica, members of our group wanted to stop at the opera house. Unfortunately, we didn't have time to take a tour of the building, but the lobby itself was beautiful, and worth taking a few minutes to stop in and see.
The lobby of the Opera House
On our final day, we walked across the Danube on the Chain Bridge. Like all of the bridges in Budapest, it was rebuilt after World War II, bu like most of them it is a reproduction of the original bridge, and it is very striking. Flanked by lions, it definitely makes an impression.
The Chain Bridge One of the lions guarding Chain Bridge
Finally, after visiting the Hospital in the Rock, we went inside the Matthias Church before we left Castle Hill. The interior of the church was surprisingly intimate compared to the impressive appearance outside. Somehow it felt smaller, almost cozy, and it is difficult to envision how crowded it must have been as the coronation church for Hungary's Kings. They also had a small museum up in the galleries, with a collection of religious artifacts from the church's history.
Inside the Matthias Church
With so much left to see and do here, it was hard to say goodbye to this beautiful city. I suppose that just means we will have to return someday to see more.
expedition_retirement: (Africa)
 The final destination on the main portion of our trip was Victoria Falls. Located on the Zambezi River, which forms the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia, these falls are taller and wider than Niagara Falls, and, during high flow periods, about 1.4 BILLION gallons of water pass over the falls every minute! I had seen pictures and video of the falls, but nothing that I had previously seen prepared me for the reality of being there.

Victoria FallsWe arrived at our hotel in Victoria Falls just in time for lunch, after flying back to the airport in Kasane by bush planes and then transferring by mini-bus across the border from Botswana back to Zimbabwe. After lunch, we headed to the Victoria Falls National Park to visit the actual falls. After a brief introduction to the geography, geology, and history of the falls, we began our walk at the south end of the falls. At this end is the Devil's Cataract, which carries the largest volume of water, and is therefore the point of highest erosion, where the river will eventually carve the gorge back from its current position. It was from here that we could look along the length of the chasm, past the main falls, and see the rainbows created by the sunlight refracting in the spray from the falls. We then walked along the length of the chasm, taking in the changing views of the falls, until we reached the gap in the chasm wall that allows the river to continue downstream through the gorge. At this time of year the water flow is relatively low, so little or no water was crossing the edge of the chasm at this end, but we did get another chance to look back down the chasm towards the main and rainbow falls. We could also look the other way and see the historic Victoria Falls bridge, the brainchild of the colonialist Cecil Rhodes, which was completed in 1905 to allow the Cape-to-Cairo railroad to cross the river.
Main falls at Victoria FallsDouble Rainbow at Victoria FallsLooking down the chasm at Victoria FallsVictoria Falls Bridge
That evening, we were divided into three groups and transported to different private homes around Victoria Falls, where we met a local family for a "Home Hosted Dinner". We were warmly greeted, and introduced to some of the local traditions, and served a delicious dinner, while sharing stories about our different cultures. Our evening was filled with a lot of fun and laughter, and ended far too quickly.

Our second day in Victoria Falls, was left free for us to use as we pleased, so we opted to book a helicopter flight over the Falls and the Zambezi gorge. When we booked it, I worried that the 22 minute flight would be too short, but it ended up being almost perfect. The views of the falls from the air were stunning, and they provided a better perspective for appreciating the scope of the Falls than was possible on the ground. And the flight over the gorge downstream from the Falls provided views that showed how the geology here impacts the Falls and their development. The current transverse chasm is merely the latest in a series of such chasms that the river has crossed over time. These chasms are the result of fractures in the underlying basalt plateau. From the air, it is easy to see the older transverse chasms, which represent earlier locations of the Falls.
Victoria Falls from the airVictoria Falls from the airZambezi River Gorge, with the transverse chasms
Finally, in the evening, we enjoyed a sunset cruise on the Zambezi River above the falls, watching elephants graze on the large island in the middle of the river, and taking in one last African sunset before returning to shore for our farewell dinner. In the morning, we would return to the airport, where some of our group would depart for home while the rest of us moved on to Cape Town for our post-trip extension.
Elephant grazing
Sunset on the ZambeziBird in flight at sunset

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Expedition: Retirement

April 2025

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