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Hot Springs, Arkansas
16 April 2025 05:58 pmHot Springs National Park is another place we have passed near in the past, but never actually took the time to stop at. I am not a spa guy, and I don't particularly like hot tubs, and have never been drawn to the idea of bathing in hot springs, so I wasn't quite sure that this would be a stop that I would particularly enjoy. But it is a National Park, so I figured there had to be something interesting to learn or see here, so we added it to the itinerary.
While the hot springs are the reason this town (and thus the National Park) exists, the Park is about so much more than the springs. The history of the hot springs, the town, and the bathhouses that made use of the thermal spring water here are actually quite fascinating. In the 19th and early part of the 20th century, the hot mineral waters of these springs were believed to have significant curative properties, and people visited Hot Springs to bath in this water (and drink it) in an effort to cure a wide range of medical conditions. Today, only one of the historic bathhouses still operates as such (although some of the hotels in town include spas that provide baths using the thermal spring waters), and the remaining bath houses serve as the heart of the National Park, which preserves their unique architecture as part of its efforts to protect the springs and their legacy. 
It was also interesting to see the public fountains that used the thermal spring water, both for decorative purposes, but also for drinking. There were several locations around town where people could fill water jugs with the hot mineral water for free. We filled our water bottles with it so we could have a taste. I didn't notice any particular flavor to the water, but it was decidedly warm straight out of the fountain (the average temperature at the springs is about 143F or 62C).
The park also includes a significant part of the surrounding mountainsides, where the rainfall soaks into the ground and eventually feeds the hot springs. These holdings protect the natural water flow in the springs while also providing a variety of opportunities to hike and enjoy the forests. We made the relatively short hike up the Hot Springs Mountain to the observation tower at the top. While we didn't go up in the tower itself, the hike was a pleasant escape from the people and traffic in town (even though it wasn't particularly crowded), and along the way, we noticed signs of fire in the forest. I can't find any accounts of wild fires here, so I'm guessing these were the results of prescribed burns intended to remove fuel in an effort to minimize the risks of big, out of control wild fires.
The only disappointment with our visit was that the visitor's center was unexpectedly closed when we arrived. When I planned the itinerary, the visitor's center was listed as being open seven day a week, but when we arrived, there was a sign on the door indicating that it is now closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. I can't say for certain, but it seems likely that this is the result of recent cuts to the Park Service funding. Regardless why it was closed, it meant that we would not get a chance to see the inside of one of these historic bath houses, or explore the exhibits inside it.
The park also includes a significant part of the surrounding mountainsides, where the rainfall soaks into the ground and eventually feeds the hot springs. These holdings protect the natural water flow in the springs while also providing a variety of opportunities to hike and enjoy the forests. We made the relatively short hike up the Hot Springs Mountain to the observation tower at the top. While we didn't go up in the tower itself, the hike was a pleasant escape from the people and traffic in town (even though it wasn't particularly crowded), and along the way, we noticed signs of fire in the forest. I can't find any accounts of wild fires here, so I'm guessing these were the results of prescribed burns intended to remove fuel in an effort to minimize the risks of big, out of control wild fires.
The only disappointment with our visit was that the visitor's center was unexpectedly closed when we arrived. When I planned the itinerary, the visitor's center was listed as being open seven day a week, but when we arrived, there was a sign on the door indicating that it is now closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. I can't say for certain, but it seems likely that this is the result of recent cuts to the Park Service funding. Regardless why it was closed, it meant that we would not get a chance to see the inside of one of these historic bath houses, or explore the exhibits inside it.
The city of Hot Springs, beyond the National Park, was also interesting, with some impressive examples of Art Deco architecture, including the former Army-Navy Hospital and the Arlington Resort Hotel and Spa. We also visited the Gangster Museum of America, located across the street from Bathhouse Row, where we learned about the deep connections between the city of Hot Springs and organized crime, as well as some of the other criminals that were active in and around the area. It was a fascinating look at the role crime and illegal activities had in the local economy and politics. I was also unaware that the concept of Spring Training for professional baseball originated here as well.
I'm sure that we could have easily spent a couple more days here and not been bored, but the road beckoned, and we had a deadline to meet in Arizona, so we had to settle for what we could see in a single day before moving along to our next destination.
I'm sure that we could have easily spent a couple more days here and not been bored, but the road beckoned, and we had a deadline to meet in Arizona, so we had to settle for what we could see in a single day before moving along to our next destination.
